Why High Action on Guitar Might Be Your Secret Weapon (Pros, Cons & Setup Guide)
By Gecko Guitars
In the world of guitar setups, “low action” is usually the holy grail. We spend hours filing nuts and tweaking truss rods to get the strings as close to the frets as possible, chasing that effortless, buttery feel.
But is lower always better?
In my experience setting up hundreds of guitars, I’ve found that “low and fast” isn’t the right answer for everyone. In fact, some of the best guitar tones in history—think Stevie Ray Vaughan or J Mascis—came from guitars with action high enough to drive a truck under.
The distance between your fretboard and strings (the action) is a trade-off. You are trading ease of play for tone and dynamics. If you’ve felt like your sound is thin or you’re fighting fret buzz, raising your action might be the fix you didn’t know you needed.
Here is my deep dive into the high-action debate, and how to decide if you should raise the bridge.
What Exactly is “Action”?
Before we argue about height, let’s define the terms. Action is simply the vertical distance between the bottom of the guitar string and the top of the fret wire.
While every player has a “sweet spot,” there are industry standards that serve as a baseline.
Standard Electric Action: Typically 4/64″ (1.6mm) on the high E and 6/64″ (2.4mm) on the low E at the 12th fret.
Standard Acoustic Action: Slightly higher, usually 5/64″ (2.0mm) on the high E and 7/64″ (2.8mm) on the low E.
High Action is generally considered anything significantly above these benchmarks. If your electric guitar is sitting at 3.0mm+ on the low E, you are in high-action territory.
The Case for High Action: Why Do It?
Why would anyone make their guitar harder to play on purpose? As I’ve discovered through years of playing, it comes down to physics and “fight.”
1. Massive Tone and Volume
This is the number one reason. When you pluck a string, it vibrates in an elliptical pattern. If the action is too low, that vibration is cut short because the string hits the fret wire (even if you don’t hear audible buzzing through the amp, it kills the sustain).
The Benefit: Higher action gives the string room to breathe. It vibrates freely, resulting in a cleaner, louder, and harmonically richer signal. On an acoustic guitar, this volume jump is instantly noticeable.
2. Zero Fret Buzz
Nothing kills a recording or a clean jazz run like the metallic zzzzzt of fret buzz. Raising the action is the quickest, most effective cure for buzz. It allows for a pristinely clean tone, which is vital for session players who can’t afford stray noise.
3. Dynamic Control (The “Fight”)
I often tell clients that a guitar with high action “fights back.” This allows you to dig in. With low action, if you hit a power chord too hard, it goes out of tune or rattles. With high action, you can attack the strings aggressively—perfect for heavy blues, punk, or hard rock—and the guitar will take the abuse and project it as pure power.
4. Better Bending Grip (With a Caveat)
There is a myth that high action makes bending harder. In terms of finger strength, yes, it does. But mechanically? It’s actually better. With ultra-low action, the strings can slip under your fingertips when you try to push them. With high action, you can get “under” the string securely, allowing for massive, controlled bends and wide vibrato—if you have the hand strength to back it up.
5. Essential for Slide Guitar
If you want to play slide, you need high action. If the strings are too low, the weight of the slide will press the strings onto the frets, causing a terrible rattling sound.
The Downsides: It’s Not All Rosy
There is a reason beginners start with low action. Raising the strings comes with physical costs.
Hand Fatigue: This is the big one. You have to press down harder to make contact with the fret. If you are playing a 3-hour set, high action can lead to cramping or, in the long run, repetitive strain injuries (RSI) if your technique isn’t perfect.
Intonation Drift: When you press a string down from a greater height, you are stretching it more than usual. This can cause the note to go slightly sharp. While you can compensate for this at the bridge saddles, extreme action can make chords sound slightly out of tune higher up the neck.
Speed Limit: There is a reason shredders like Yngwie Malmsteen use low action. The extra millisecond it takes to press the string down adds up when you are playing 16th notes at 180 BPM. High action is not for speed demons.
How to Measure Your Action (The Right Way)
Don’t eyeball it. If you want to experiment with your action, you need precise measurements.
Tools You Need: I recommend a String Action Gauge (a small metal ruler with precise millimeter/inch markings). A standard household ruler is often too inaccurate because the “zero” mark doesn’t start at the very edge.
The Process:
Tune Up: Always measure with the guitar in tune, as string tension affects the neck bow.
Capo (Optional): Some techs put a capo on the 1st fret to eliminate nut height from the equation. I prefer measuring open for a “real world” feel.
The 12th Fret: Place your gauge on top of the 12th fret wire (metal).
Read the Gap: Look at the bottom of the Low E (thickest) string.
Standard Electric: Aim for 2.0mm – 2.4mm.
High Action: Anything over 2.8mm.
Repeat for the High E string (aim slightly lower).
Final Verdict: Is High Action For You?
In my opinion, most guitarists are playing with action that is too low, sacrificing tone for comfort.
If you are a technical metal player or you have a light touch, stick to low action. You need the speed.
However, if you are a Blues player, a classic rocker, or an acoustic strummer who feels like your tone is “small” or lacking sustain, try raising your bridge saddles just a half-turn. You might find that the extra effort your fingers have to put in translates directly to a bigger, bolder sound.